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Frequently Asked Questions
Contents:
Why do I see so many oak floors?
Why are most floors made of boards which are 2 1/4”
wide?
Can I install wood flooring over a concrete floor?
Can I install wood flooring over an in-floor radiant heat
system?
Should I consider prefinished floors for my project?
What about laminate floors?
Should I expect shrinkage cracks in my wood floors?
What type of subfloor is best for hardwood installation?
Will my new wood floor be perfectly level?
What should I know about different grades of flooring?
What type of finish is best?
What can I do to prevent sun-fading of my floors?
How should I care for my floors?
What is involved in maintenance-coating my floors?
What if my floors need sanding and refinishing?
How dusty is the sanding process?
How can I get a quote on wood floor work?
Why
do I see so many oak floors?
Oak has several characteristics which make it a very good choice for a
floor. It is price-competitive, durable, and is one of the few woods which
accepts stain well, so you have more color choices available. There are
also many pre-milled trim pieces available in oak which can be incorporated
in your project to blend with the floor. Oak is readily available in various
millings and grades, and a like product will be available if you need
to repair the floor or add more wood at a later date.
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Why
are most floors made of boards which are 2 1/4” wide?
2 1/4" is the standard, traditional milling for oak (and most other
species) of flooring. Departing from the 2 1/4” width generally
results in decreased availability and higher pricing. The wider the board,
the wider the shrinkage cracks between boards, and this explains why there
is not much use of wide plank flooring in our dry climate. Narrower boards,
such as 1 1/2”, are often recommended for certain applications such
as over radiant heat systems to minimize shrinkage.
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Can
I install wood flooring over a concrete floor?
The type of wood flooring you select depends on the type of substrate
(concrete or a conventional wood-framed subfloor), and the location (on,
above, or below grade). Solid wood flooring is not recommended for installation
over a concrete slab on or below grade unless special construction techniques
were used before the house was built to alleviate potential problems with
ground moisture -- even then, problems can still arise, as there is no
totally foolproof way to install a vapor barrier and subfloor system over
concrete to permit the use of solid wood flooring. Instead, engineered
flooring is recommended for such applications. It is constructed of multiple
layers of wood veneer glued together, then milled into individual boards
or panels. It may be installed as a direct glue-down application over
concrete, or as a floating system over a thin layer of foam underlayment.
Due to the thin wood veneer wear layer, these products are not designed
for sanding and finishing on-site and come only as prefinished products.
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Can
I install wood flooring over an in-floor radiant heat system?
Yes, as long as the subsystem is properly designed and constructed, and
you are aware that you will experience more chance for shrinkage cracks
between boards due to the surface heat. Depending on the type of radiant
heat system selected, there are other factors to consider, such as chances
for greater movement of boards due to increased spacing between fasteners,
or longer construction time to allow gypcrete to cure before the flooring
is installed if you select the gypcrete-and-screed system. We have found
the system whereby the heat tubes are suspended beneath a conventional
plywood subfloor to provide the best substrate for hardwood flooring,
since it provides even support and adequate nailing. If you are considering
wood flooring over radiant heat, please contact us during the planning
process for the home so that we may discuss alternatives with you and
provide specifications for the design and layout of the system.
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Should
I consider prefinished floors for my project?
Prefinished flooring is generally marketed to the homeowner or do-it-yourselfer
who wants to install their own floor, and comprises a small percentage
of the professional wood floor contractor market. It takes the most difficult
and touchiest part of the job out of the picture, and eliminates the need
for specialized equipment and expertise associated with site-sanding and
finishing of a wood floor. ADVANTAGES: no sanding dust; no drying times
for stains and finishes; and longer finish durability due to use of aluminum
oxide finishes which can only be applied in a factory environment. DISADVANTAGES:
uneven appearance since boards are not sanded level to one another following
installation; greater visibility of cracks between boards since floors
are not filled; limited options as to repair of a damaged area; harder
to keep clean since most prefinished floors have a bevel-edge, which forms
a v-shaped groove between boards; floors cannot be maintenance-coated
periodically to restore sheen without voiding manufacturer’s wear-through
warranty on finish.
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What
about laminate floors?
Laminate floors are constructed with a layer of a synthetic material embossed
with a “picture” of wood grain over a base of fiberboard material.
These products may look like hardwood at first glance, but actually compete
more with the vinyl floor covering market. Since they are not true wood,
we have chosen not to install or service this type of product.
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Should
I expect shrinkage cracks in my wood floors?
To quote the National Oak Floor Manufacturer’s Association, “Properly
made and properly installed oak floors should be expected to have ‘hairline
cracks’ between boards in dry months in most areas of North America.”
To expect a totally crack-free floor is unreasonable, and is the biggest
source of complaints from uninformed consumers. Shrinkage is a big concern
in the arid climate of the Rocky Mountain Front Range, and can be minimized
(but never totally eliminated) by the following: use of material which
has acclimated to the dry air; avoiding the use of wide plank flooring;
avoiding the use of species of wood which are more prone to shrinkage,
such as maple and pine, among others; keeping the house at constant temperature
and humidity levels (approx. 30 to 35%) through use of a humidifier; and
use of proper subfloor materials and installation techniques.
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What
type of subfloor is best for hardwood installation?
Exterior grade plywood provides the best subfloor for modern construction
because of its superior nail- or staple-holding power. In older construction,
1x6 or 1x8 boards of #1 or #2 common pine laid at a 45 degree angle to
joists is also a good subfloor. While OSB, or oriented strand board, is
frequently used in today’s new construction, it is acceptable only
if it meets certain industry specifications and has never been exposed
to moisture saturation during the building process (the wet/dry cycle
can impair the nail-holding power of OSB).
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Will
my new wood floor be perfectly level?
Since wood flooring follows the general contour of the subfloor, your
floor will only be as level as what is underneath it. The general industry
specifications are that the floor be flat to within 1/8” in 6’,
or 3/16” in 10’. Please note that this specification refers
to planarity, or flatness, not how level the floor is. Don’t expect
to place a marble on the floor and not have it roll. If you are concerned
about flatness or level of your floors, you may need to have your builder
or a general contractor check and repair your subfloor prior to wood flooring
installation. Also, do not count on the sanding process to level a floor,
since a very small amount of wood is typically removed during the sanding
process.
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What
should I know about different grades of flooring?
Besides the species of wood, you may choose from various grades of flooring.
The grade is a designation describing only the cosmetics of the wood --
all grades exhibit the same strength and longevity throughout the species.
The lower grades have a higher concentration of character marks such as
knots, worm holes, mineral streaks, and light and dark contrast, for a
more rustic look. As you move up in grade, the concentration of character
marks decreases and the overall appearance and coloration becomes more
uniform. See nwfa.org for a detailed
explanation of grading standards.
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What
type of finish is best?
This is a question that there is no universally-agreed upon answer to.
We prefer the traditional oil-base polyurethane finish, which is a very
durable product. It has an amber coloration that intensifies the underlying
coloration of the wood, and gradually darkens over time (but may fade
in areas of direct sunlight). It has a noticeable odor following application,
and generally needs to dry overnight before foot traffic or re-coating.
Waterborne finishes are becoming more popular, but are generally not as
durable as oil-base finishes (there are some commercial grade waterborne
finishes that are very durable, equaling or exceeding the oil base products).
Waterborne finishes are more expensive than oil base, have less odor,
dry more quickly (typically dry to foot traffic in 3 to 4 hours), and
impart a very light color, nearly a bleached look, to the floors. Newest
generation prefinished products usually have an aluminum oxide finish,
which is the most durable finish available. This type of finish is not
available for site-finished floors, since it must be applied in a controlled
environment and subjected to ultraviolet-ray curing immediately afterward.
(When you evaluate the extended wear-through warranties for these products,
some as long as 25 years, keep in mind that the manufacturer warrants
only that the finish will not wear through to the wood during normal abrasion
from foot traffic; you will still experience dents, scratches, dog’s
claw marks, erosion from chair rollers, dulling of the finish in high
traffic areas, etc., all of which are not covered under warranty).
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What
can I do to prevent sun-fading of my floors?
Discoloration of the finish (and in cases of intense, direct sunlight
of the wood itself—certain species such as cherry are notorious
for this) is normal and unavoidable. Oil base polyurethane finishes are
most susceptible to this phenomenon, which is called photochemical-reactivity.
While waterborne finishes are often advertised as non-fading, this is
not true (although they discolor less than oil base finishes). Use of
blinds or drapes to block direct sunlight will help, as will use of newer
window products which reduce UV transmission. While most discoloration
is caused by sunlight, finishes will also amber and discolor with age.
Moving area rugs and furniture on a regular basis will help to minimize
the stark contrast between areas with sunlight exposure and those areas
which have been shielded from light.
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How
should I care for my floors?
Assuming that you have a urethane finish (either oil-base or waterbase),
keep the floors clean and free of dirt, grit and sand by sweeping or dust-mopping
on a regular basis. If you vacuum your floors, make sure that you use
an attachment designed for hard floor surfaces, and that this attachment
does not have any rough surfaces which could mar the finish. You will
periodically need to lightly damp-mop your floors to remove food spills,
muddy footprints, etc. When you do so, AVOID USE OF ANY PRODUCT CONTAINING
WAX, OIL OR ACRYLIC. Any oil soap, spray dusting aid, or other floor care
product containing wax, oil or acrylic can leave a residue on your floors
which can impair adhesion of future coats of finish. Use of mats at exterior
doors, area rugs or runners in high traffic areas, and felt glides on
furniture legs will also prolong the finish. An additional coat of finish,
referred to as a maintenance coat, is required to replenish the finish
that will wear off from normal abrasion from foot traffic. There is no
universal interval between maintenance coats, since the amount of foot
traffic and how clean you are able to keep your floors will determine
the finish life.
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What
is involved in maintenance-coating my floors?
We need a bare floor to work with, so the homeowner is responsible for
removal and replacement of furniture. (If desired, appliances may remain
in place and we will coat around them). We then “screen”,
or lightly abrade the floor, using a buffer and abrasive screen, to roughen
the top surface of the existing finish so that the new coat will adhere.
This process will also remove fine surface scratches and scuffs, but will
not remove anything deeper, such as deep scratches, dents, gouges, sun
fading, or wear stains. Nor is there any way (short of a complete sanding
to bare wood) to remove any wax, oil or acrylic buildup from use of improper
cleaning products. The floor is then swept and vacuumed to remove any
dust, then a single finish coat is applied. The floor should be allowed
to dry overnight without foot traffic, and a few days longer before furniture
and area rugs are replaced.
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What
if my floors need sanding and refinishing?
If your floors have gone too long between maintenance coats such that
wear stains have appeared, or if you have blemishes in the hardwood which
are too deep to remove by screening, or if you have used an improper cleaning
product, you will need to have your floors sanded to bare wood and refinished.
In most cases, this is a 3-day process, since there are three applications
of product on your floor (one coat of seal or stain on the bare wood,
then 2 full-strength coats of urethane finish). The floors are rough-sanded
to bare wood, then trowel-filled, then fine-sanded, then stained (if a
darkened finish is desired) or sealed (if a natural-color finish is desired)
on the first day. On days 2 and 3, the floors are prepped and a full-strength
coat of finish is applied on each day. Drying times are generally 8 hours
on day 1, and 12 to 16 hours (usually overnight) on days 2 and 3. As with
maintenance coats, the homeowner is responsible for removal and replacement
of furniture.
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How
dusty is the sanding process?
Regardless of what you may hear, sanding of wood floors is an inherently
dusty procedure. Even the best dust-containment systems on the market
will generate some fine dust, and to expect otherwise is to set yourself
up for disappointment. We will hang or drape plastic where possible to
contain dust in the immediate work area, but face limitations in areas
with vaulted ceilings or open lofts. Our machines utilize built-in vacuums
and dust bags which capture the majority of the dust, but cannot get it
all. We recommend that you remove wall hangings and window coverings if
possible prior to sanding. The best way to avoid the sanding mess is to
keep up with maintenance coats on your floors to avoid having to sand
and refinish them.
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How
can I get a quote on wood floor work?
Please call our office and discuss your proposed project with one of our
staff professionals. We recommend that you schedule an appointment for
a free estimate so that we can get an accurate measurement, and evaluate
the site conditions in your home. You are also welcome to visit our showroom
to view actual examples of different grades and species of wood, and look
through photographs in our portfolio. While we can offer very general
ballpark prices by phone, we strongly recommend an on-site bid to avoid
unseen problems and allow us to get all the information we need to do
the job right.
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